Anticiplate

Today, I finally felt on the verge of a burn out. Yep. It finally happened to me. If I had worked today, it would have been two solid weeks without a break. That is just not healthy. While I laid in bed, tucked in my overstuffed down comforter, I texted my sous chef at Tavolata and told him that I would not be a good cook today, and I needed a break. Then I went back to bed for two more hours and dreamed that I made Pho.

I am one of those nerdy people who actually gets excited to go to the grocery store. While searching in the random places we store our reusable grocery bags, the closet, above the fridge, a drawer in the bathroom, I make a mental grocery list. I know I will continue to add to it as I push my cart around the outside of the grocery store filling my basket with almost everything I don’t need. Today it was three Chioggia beets and a pomegranate. Obviously these are not the ingredients I needed if I wanted to make Pho. I also barely ever go in the middle of the grocery store. Maybe for dog food, an impulsive vinegar purchase, or for rice noodles, as I did today.

Making pho is a simple, yet long process that basically takes control of half of your day. You can be passive, but you do have to tend to your broth, skimming scum and extra fat so that when you ladle it into your deep white bowls, you can see right through to the bottom. It should be that clear. But, if it is not, then nobody will notice when you fill your bowl with tons of long rice noodles, thinly sliced flank, and bean sprouts, Thai basil, cilantro, lime, and jalapeno chilies.

Pho to me is a comfort food. It is like Seattle’s biscuits n’ gravy or baked mac and cheese. It seems that the cloudy gray weather and Pho seem to have a natural affinity. Today was one of those days. Not day or night. Just that lingering overcast of grayness that doesn’t enable you to know the time it is or gage the temperature outside. But, ironically, these are my favorite days in Seattle.

As the pot simmers on the stove, I smell the amazing flavors of coriander, cinnamon, and star anise coming from the steam flowing out of the large pot in my kitchen. I drink a larger than normal glass of prosecco, cuddle with my puggle Cashew, and reflect on my amazing week as an employed pantry cook over at Delancey. It also helps, too, that my husband is working from home today. Even if he is on his computer, it is nice to be able to talk to someone who can actually talk back to you.

Delancey is this little gem of a restaurant. It is the third one I have worked at since June, and what I adore about it is that is is not trying to be anything but what it is- fantastic pizza. We have fun, a lot of fun, but most of my time is spent sort of alone, on the outskirts of what is going on in the dining room. I have no idea how busy it is, but I do know there is a constant wait, as I plate salads and burrata and brownies. But, as I am plating these dishes over and over again, slightly sweating because it is hot at my station, I can’t help but wish that I could start changing things up a bit. Not anything crazy, I assure you. It is just little ol’ me of course, novice and amateur.

It feels good to know that I can basically suggest any idea to my boss, and friend, and he will consider it, and let me experiment.

This week my Delancey experiment is beets. Chioggia, golden, purple. All three, even.  Oranges, a little bit of his homemade sherry vinegar, large flat-leaf parsley leaves. Maybe some creamy goat cheese. The possibilities are endless.

Just like my dream to make Pho this morning, I am living my dream of becoming a cook. Someone is paying me to represent food at their restaurant. Mind-boggling, in fact.

Prep time: 20 minutes

Cook time: 4 hours

Serves 4

*Adapted from Jaden Hair’s recipe on Steamy Kitchen

2 yellow onions, halved
4″ ginger root, halved lengthwise
5-6 lbs of good beef bones, preferably leg and knuckle
6 quarts of water
1 package of Pho Spices [1 cinnamon stick, 1 tbsp coriander seeds, 1 tbsp fennel seeds, 5 star anise, 1 cardamom pod, 6 whole cloves - in mesh bag or cheese cloth]
2 tbsp salt
1/4 cup fish sauce
1 tbsp. sugar

1 lb. cooked rice noodles, follow package instructions

1/2 lb flank steak sliced thin, against the grain
A big handful of Cilantro and Basil
2 limes, cut into wedges
2-3 serrano or jalepeno peppers, sliced
2 big handfuls of bean sprouts

Turn your broiler on high and move the rack to the highest spot. Place ginger and onions on baking sheet. Brush all over with vegetable oil. Broil on high until ginger and onions begin to char, about five minutes. Turn over and continue to char for another 5 minutes.

Fill a large pot (12-qt capacity) with cold water. Bring the water to a boil, and then add the bones, keeping the heat on high. Boil vigorously for 10 minutes. Drain, rinse the bones and rinse out the pot. Refill pot with bones and 6 qts of cold water. Bring to boil over high heat and lower to a simmer. Using a ladle or a fine mesh strainer, remove any scum that rises to the top.

Add the ginger, onion, spice packet, sugar, fish sauce, and salt and simmer uncovered for 3 hours, removing scum and skimming the top for leftover fat. Strain broth and return the broth to the pot. Taste the broth and adjust seasoning – if you want a little more flavor, add a few dashes more of fish sauce, a large pinch of salt or sugar.

Place your flank steak in the freezer for 15 minutes. Slice your flank steak against the grain. Assemble a plate of limes, bean sprouts, herbs, and cooked noodles.  Bring your broth back to a boil and line up your soup bowls next to the stove. Fill each bowl with rice noodles and raw flank slices. As soon as the broth comes back to a boil, ladle into each bowl. The hot broth will cook your raw beef slices. Serve immediately and garnish with all of the accompaniments.